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Today we're happy to offer the new releases from Roses de Jeanne and some library releases from Champagne Horiot.
Among the visionary growers of Champagne, Cédric Bouchard of Roses de Jeanne might be considered something of an auteur. Which is to say that all of his efforts in the vines and cellar advance his vision: that expression of each vineyard is paramount. Contrary to the Champenois tradition of blending, each cuvée is derived from one grape and one parcel and one vintage. The grapes are vinified to maximize the sense of terroir and fruit while eliminating those elements that Bouchard finds extraneous. To this end the base wines are fermented in stainless steel (he has described wood as “makeup”), he never chaptalizes, and always vinifies without filtering, fining or cold stabilization. Finally, the wines are bottled with no dosage under less pressure than other Champagnes to produce a more delicate bead, thereby lending more transparency to the terroir within. There is a great purity to these Champagnes, which are taut, dry, vinous, and frank in their minerality. While it is considered controversial by some, if there is a Champagne that lends itself to decanting, young Roses de Jeanne can often benefit from a bit of air to allow it to unfurl.
And as a special bonus we just received a limited quantity of library release magnums from Olivier Horiot, the joyful master of Rosé des Riceys. for those unfamiliar, these beautiful wines are true vins de garde and gain in nuance and expressiveness with age.
-John McIlwain
Roses de Jeanne (Cedric Bouchard) 2017 base Champagne Blanc de Noirs Val de Vilaine
Formerly known as Infloresence, as of 2012 Val de Vilaine, this Blanc de Noirs comes from a south-facing 1.49ha plot of vines in Polisy planted in 1974 owned by Cédric's father. If there's such a thing as an 'entry level' Champagne in Bouchard's lineup, this is it. Historically more approachable when young than Bouchard's other wines, Val de Vilaine, is now more tightly wound and concentrated as the already small yields were nearly halved to 26hl/ha bringing it in line with the other cuvées of Roses de Jeanne. Here you'll find a classic expression of Polisy terroir. -John McIlwain
Roses de Jeanne (Cedric Bouchard) 2012 Champagne Blanc de Noirs Côte de Béchalin Disg 2019
Côte de Béchalin (formerly known as La Parcelle when part of the Inflorescence lineup) comes from a meticulously farmed .73 hectare parcel in Celles-sur-Ource. Where previously Bouchard sold wines made by the former owner, he later vinified the wines in those cellars. 2007 was the first vintage where the wines were made completely in Cédric's cellars. While these Champagnes have seemed to have a broader palate with more exotic fruit, they maintain poise with pinpoint acidity. One can certainly enjoy this now, but some time in the cellar to further knit the elements of structure and fruit should pay off handsomely. -John McIlwain
Roses de Jeanne (Cedric Bouchard) 2015 Champagne Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Blancs La Bolorée
In many ways Bolorée is as much an expression of Cédric Bouchard's aesthetic as it is an expression of terroir. It is made in tiny quantities from a 50-year-old parcel of Pinot Blanc planted on chalk rather than the typical argilo-calcaire (clay and limestone) of the Aube. And while Pinot Blanc can be a bit vapid in some cases, Bouchard's has a taut, mineral, and nervy architecture beneath the richness of the fruit. John McIlwain
Roses de Jeanne (Cedric Bouchard) 2015 Champagne Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Noirs Ursules
Les Ursules is a Blanc de Noirs from a single parcel of less than a hectare of the same name in the Côtes des Bars. As always Cédric Bouchard’s aesthetic is vineyard expression above all. This single vineyard, single vintage Pinot Noir is raised in stainless steel, to avoid any influence of wood that would mask the character of the terroir. The long, slow secondary fermentation and bottling without dosage produces a vinous, savory champagne that benefits from decanting and serving in a wine glass rather than a flute to better appreciate the concentrated, earthy character of the Pinot Noir grown in this vineyard. John McIlwain
Roses de Jeanne (Cedric Bouchard) 2015 Champagne Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Noirs Ursules 1.5 L
Les Ursules is a Blanc de Noirs from a single parcel of less than a hectare of the same name in the Côtes des Bars. As always Cédric Bouchard’s aesthetic is vineyard expression above all. This single vineyard, single vintage Pinot Noir is raised in stainless steel, to avoid any influence of wood that would mask the character of the terroir. The long, slow secondary fermentation and bottling without dosage produces a vinous, savory champagne that benefits from decanting and serving in a wine glass rather than a flute to better appreciate the concentrated, earthy character of the Pinot Noir grown in this vineyard. John McIlwain
Horiot 2008 Rosé des Riceys En Barmont (Still) 1.5L
Though there are fewer than 20 growers of Rosé des Riceys, we tend to think of the wines as coming from a single terroir. By separately vinifying two different lieux-dits, Olivier Horiot shows the possibilities of expression within the appellation. En Barmont is a warm site, whose southerly exposure and marls interspersed with Kimmeridgian limestone produce a ripe Pinot Noir with a broader character than nearby En Valigrain. John McIlwain
Horiot 2008 Rosé des Riceys En Valingrain (Still) 1.5L
If the Rosé des Riceys from En Barmont is generous, verging on sensuous in nature, En Valingrain offers more linear, bordering on cerebral, pleasures (both are fantastic, I hasten to add) as the climat's lighter marl lends more precision and finesse. John McIlwain
Horiot 2009 Rosé des Riceys En Barmont (Still) 1.5L
Though there are fewer than 20 growers of Rosé des Riceys, we tend to think of the wines as coming from a single terroir. By separately vinifying two different lieux-dits, Olivier Horiot shows the possibilities of expression within the appellation. En Barmont is a warm site, whose southerly exposure and marls interspersed with Kimmeridgian limestone produce a ripe Pinot Noir with a broader character than nearby En Valigrain.