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If you’ve visited us at the shop, you know that we love maps. Aside from tasting wine, maps are the key for me to an initial understanding of any wine region, and I refer to the maps on our walls and in books every day. Above all, a good map provides clarity, so I’m really looking forward to the new edition of Hugh Johnson & Jancis Robinson’s “World Atlas of Wine”. This is the 8th edition! The first was published in 1971 and the 7th in 2013, but so much has changed since then that it took Jancis and Hugh two years to completely update this masterful reference work, considerably helped by the Italian specialist on JancisRobinson.com, Walter Speller.
We’re going to celebrate the new book with Jancis, Hugh and Walter; in turn this provides the perfect excuse to have a big tasting of the great 2016 vintage in Barbaresco, something Walter and I have wanted to do for a while now. Please join us on Monday October 21st at the Tribeca Grill. Every attendee will receive a copy of the “World Atlas of Wine”, and while you review the maps you can taste over 45 Barbaresco 2016, chat with the guests of honor, and enjoy the lavish and delicious food that the Tribeca Grill specializes in.
The new World Atlas is by no means limited to maps; there are many fascinating pages devoted to grapes and winemaking that will be interesting and useful to wine lovers of all levels of devotion.
Four of our favorite Barbaresco are included in the tasting - as shown below.
Just by itself, the prospect of tasting 40-50 of the best 2016 wines from Barbaresco would have me lining up. There are plenty of famous names on the list, and - thanks to Walter's demanding palate - some exciting discoveries as well. Add a copy of the new "World Atlas of Wine" ($65 retail), the august company of authors Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson, and plenty of wonderful food - it will be another great evening. Jamie Wolff Some, but not all, of the wines to be tasted: Albino Rocca, Bruno Rocca, Ca' del Baio, Castello di Verduno, Ceretto, Colla, Cortese, Fontanabianca, La Ca' Nova, Luigi Oddero, Luisin, Marinacci, Marchesi di Gresy, Moccagatta, Musso, Oddero, Bondonio, Abrigo, Paitin, Quazzolo, Rabaglio, Rivetto, Socre, Sottimano, Lequio, etc etc
Barale 2016 Barbaresco Serraboella
This beautiful Barbaresco comes from 40 to 50 year old vines planted in Serraboella, the most elevated point on the highest hill of Neive, with quite extreme diurnal shifts in temperature leading to an elegant and lifted style of Nebbiolo. The nose opens with notes of soft spice, sandalwood, dried roses, violets, and macerated cherry. The palate is rich, yet taut, showing beautiful flavors of dried cherry, forest fruit, dried orange peel, more spice and sandalwood. The tannins are present but well integrated, and this wine has acidity for days. What struck me the most upon tasting at the cantina was the intensity of flavor and complexity that builds to a beautiful crescendo and an incredibly long finish. Drinking well now with a long decant, this will only improve in your cellar. A fantastic value. Oskar Kostecki
Cascina delle Rose 2016 Barbaresco Rio Sordo
This is a spectacular Barbaresco. It has the kind of balance that can only remind me of a good 1989 – a combo of great purity, complexity, promise of a long life, and yet still just plain delicious now. Tasted at the winery in May, it was open and generous, with great tension and focus, and layers of aromas and flavors (particularly orange peel and lovely savory carraway / fennel seed). After years of visiting (and selling the wines here) Cascina delle Rose is firmly on my short list. The wines should be much better known, but any cellar with pretensions to Piemontese excellence needs this wine. Jamie Wolff
Fletcher, David 2016 Barbaresco Recta Pete
Dave Fletcher writes: “50% of the vineyards I work with are certified organic and the other half is under conversion. As a day job I work for one of the biggest Biodynamic producers in Barolo and Barbaresco. I believe 100% in these techniques for my own grape production and strive for better health and lower impact for the vines and their surroundings. Not wanting to contribute to an ever increasing mono-culture in the Langhe, I offset the land used for my grape production with ownership of the equivalent area in Forest, swamp and grasslands rich in biodiversity.” I thought Fletcher’s 2015 Barbaresco was outstanding. A couple of instances of crossed-wires have thus far prevented me from tasting the 2016. We very rarely borrow anyone else’s tasting note, but in the present instance, who better than Walter Speller to help out? Jamie Wolff "Barbaresco. Tasted blind. Mid ruby. A little reluctant on the nose. Leafy rather than fruity at this moment. Very slow to open up. Tightly built and with austere but finely chiselled tannins and long-lasting, sweet-sour cherry fruit. Still tight and truly elegant and in need of much more time. A beauty in the making. 17.5" Walter Speller (published on jancisrobinson.com,"2016 - A Turning Point for Barbaresco", 5/29/19)
Versio, Francesco 2016 Barbaresco
Perhaps Francesco Versio is just young-looking… He has to have a lot of energy for his very demanding day job (winemaker at Luigi Oddero with Dante Scaglione) and yet he is also making his own excellent Barbaresco. The 2016 is about 65% from San Cristoforo and the balance from Cotta and Starderi (all in Neive). Tasted in late June the wine was showing gorgeously, very open and complete, savory with delicate citrusy aromatics, and beautifully balanced – a super elegant and refined Barbaresco. Jamie Wolff