Arlaud 2016 Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru

50+ year-old vines from the top of the Mazoyères section of Charmes-Chambertin, beneath Latricières, adjacent to Domaine Leroy's vines. 20% new oak. This is also a step-up from the already excellent 1ers. Effusively aromatic, with scents of perfectly ripe orchard fruit. Pure cherry, red and black plums, spice box, and game notes. The nose is kaleidoscopic, layered, and dazzling for Charmes. The palate is equally impressive, with layer after layer of perfectly ripe Pinot fruit, vying with a profound stoniness for attention. This has a deeply mineral core and has the lift to carry all the stoniness. Finely-grained tannins and succulent acidity run through the finish. This is great Charmes! Needs 10-15+ years, but just electric. Wow! John McIlwain

Arlaud 2016 Morey St Denis 1er Cru Les Ruchots

60+year-old vines planted in a walled clos on Chambolle side of Morey beneath Bonnes Mares and Clos de Tart.  15% new oak. More structured, deeper-pitched, and masculine than Les Millandes. Pure plummy black cherry fruit with sauvage/animale elements and a  frank, ferrous minerality within. Great density and agility. You can taste the proximity to Sentiers and Bonnes Mares. This is dynamite! Nearly painfully long, stony, palate-staining finish. This isn't a wine to enjoy in its callow youth, but will reward with 12-15+ years in the cellar. Patience is a virtue here. John McIlwain

Bachelet 2016 Côtes de Nuits Villages

Bachelet, Denis 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

From 60-70-year-old vines spread across multiple lieux-dits. 100% destemmed, fermented with indigenous yeasts, 20% new oak. Perhaps the most elegant and knit of the Gevrey-Villages. This is at least premier cru quality every vintage and ages effortlessly into deeply satisfying wine. Truly benchmark for the village and a smart choice for cellaring every year. John Mcilwain

Bachelet, Denis 2016 Bourgogne Rouge

From two plots planted in 1977 and 1986 in limestone clay soils.  100% destemmed and aged in used barrels. Domaine Bachelet is one of the greatest growers in Burgundy and this Bourgogne  shows all the breed and class of a Gevrey villages. Highly recommended.

Berthaut-Gerbet 2016 Bourgogne Rouge Les Prielles

From vines planted in 1980 in Fixin. Pale ruby robe. A bit of spritz on opening. This blows off in short order to reveal pretty aromas of wild strawberry, black tea and brambly fruit. A bit of air and there’s a bit of sousbois and crushed herb that develop on the nose. Bright toned and lively on the palate. Vibrant red fruits, pomegranate and wild cherry dominate; fresh acidity and crushed herbs lend a forest floor character that gives way to wet stone. This needs a bit of time to knit, but what potential! Amelie Berthaut is making soulful, satisfying wines at every level and if the secret isn’t out yet, it will be soon. John McIlwain

Berthaut-Gerbet 2016 Fixin Les Crais

The nose is effusively floral with aromas of hibiscus, wild strawberry, griottes, and wet stone. The mid-weight palate is ripe, juicy, and supple with pure red fruit flavors and a fine chalky structure with succulent, mouthwatering, rising finish. This has great flair and a great balance between to beautiful fruit and the fine-grained minerality. Contrary to the reputation for Fixin being on the more rustic end of the Burgundy spectrum, this is really pretty and has impeccable balance. Delicious now and should age beautifully in the medium term. Lovely juice. John McIlwain

Berthaut-Gerbet 2016 Vosne-Romanée

From vines dating back to 1935, 1949, and 1955 from the Aux Réas and Au-Dessus de la Rivière lieux-dits. A bit reduced on opening, with air ripe notes of red cherry, spice box, and rose petals emerge with hints of forest floor and game to follow. The svelte, but concentrated palate offers pure red fruit flavors, Asian spice, and a fine stoniness on a nervy, yet supple finish. Delicious now with decanting, this should gain from a few years in the cellar. John McIlwain

Boillot, Louis 2016 Gevrey Chambertin

From 8 lieux-dits across Gevrey-Chambertin. Considering the escalation in prices at all levels in Burgundy, Louis Boillot's Gevrey-Chambertin remains a fantastic value, brimming with Gevrey character, while remaining affordable. The 2016 is heady, fresh, and cool-toned on the nose offering black cherry, plum skin, raspberry, game and wood smoke aromas. Dark-fruited and savory flavors intermingle on the medium-bodied palate, with ripe notes of black cherry, hedge fruit, cherry pit, and crushed herbs. There is good mineral detail to this lending a sapid counterpoint to the fruit. Nice freshness here with fine structure lending an earthy, masculine Gevrey character. This punches above its weight and should shine with 5-7 years of cellaring and drink beautifully for the next decade. John McIlwain

Burguet, Alain 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champeaux

From 32-year-old vines on shallow stony soils. Champeaux is one of the brightest and most vibrant of the Gervrey 1ers. Burguet's is easily one of my favorites. Bright red fruits and violets dominate the nose, the palate is cool, refined, and has great concentration, exhibiting a finely mineral finish. (Verging on cerebral were it not for the prettiness of the fruit.) John McIlwain

Chandon de Briailles 2016 Bourgogne Gelée Royale

From declassified fruit from Savigny-Les-Beaune and Pernand-Vergelesses. Destemmed. Though 2016 produced some excellent wines, it was a trying vintage, not least because of the devastating frost of April 26-27. Gelée Royale (Royal Frost) is an assemblage of the hard hit crus in Savigny and Pernand-Vergelesses, which though classified as a Bourgogne, contains some brilliant fruit from Chandon de Briailles' impeccably farmed village and premier cru vines.

Chandon de Briailles 2016 Corton Clos du Roi

Chandon de Briailles 2017 Corton Clos du Roi

From .38 hectares of biodynamically farmed vines averaging over 40 years old, high on the hillside of Corton. Traditionally the most powerful and long-lasting of the stable of red Corton lieux-dits at Chandon de Briailles. Plummy black fruit, animale funk, wood smoke, and fresh-turned earth. In the mouth ripe red/black fruit flavors mingle with pungent minerality on the vibrant mid-weight palate. There is good sap and firm, but ripe tannins supporting the racy fruit on the long, substantial finish. This has real class and should be sensational after 10-15 years in the cellar. John McIlwain

Chandon de Briailles 2017 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Lavières

From 50-year-old vines located mid-slope. 50% whole cluster. The shallow soils overlay flat limestone rocks, giving way to clay subsoils.  The 2017 has a deep ruby robe. The nose is redolent of violets, hedge fruits and spice. The mid-weight palate shows good ripeness and punch with juicy blackberry and cassis flavors and sauvage notes with a pungently mineral—verging on salty—core, finishing with a burst of spice on the long, detailed, lip-smacking finish. This is earthy, though by no means rustic and shows great flair. There is sneaky structure and while this is delicious now, this will benefit from 5-8 years in the cellar. John McIlwain

D'Angerville 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Fremiets

De Montille 2015 Beaune 1er Cru Grèves 1.5L

From a 1.26 ha parcel just south of the famed Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus from Bouchard. 100% whole cluster. While I’ll concede to not being a big believer in the 2015 hype, the De Montille Beaune Grèves certainly piques my interest. Dark berry fruit, brambles, a touch of orange oil, and stone on the nose, some sous-bois and a bit of oak. The palate is a mélange of hedge fruits, black cherry, black tea, and notes of blood orange, wrapped around a vibrant cherry pit and a salty mineral core. This has subtle tannins and poised ripeness (nothing overripe, or stewed here, thank you very much!) and delightful freshness given the vintage; all propelling a bright, succulent finish. And if I’m typically no fan of overtly stemmy Burgundy, this makes a compelling argument for the suaveness that can be accomplished by stem inclusion in a solar vintage. This is a lovely Beaune Grèves and a truly enjoyable and expressive wine from the vintage. This should gain in focus and complexity in the mid-term and is a sensational expression of the terroir. Kudos to Etienne De Montille! John McIlwain

De Montille 2015 Pommard 1er Cru Pèzerolles

From 1.35 hectares of organically-farmed vines. The 2015 vintage is 50% whole cluster fermentation aged in 30% new barrels. Pèzerolles is always one of the silkier and suppler expressions of Pommard, with a fine core of stoniness within. In 2015 De Montille has released a beautiful example. The nose is exuberantly perfumed with intriguing aromas of violets, tea roses, and crunchy red berry fruit. The palate is bright and suffused with ripe red and black fruit flavors, notes of black tea, and spices with a discreet framing of some new oak. The vibrant fruit seems to dance over a deeply mineral core that integrates with time in the glass and culminates in a long, succulent, fresh finish. There's none of the roasted character of some of the 2015s, and this is deeply satisfying in its poise, energy, and balance. Bravo! John McIlwain

De Montille 2015 Pommard 1er Cru Pèzerolles 1.5L

From 1.35 hectares of organically-farmed vines. The 2015 vintage is 50% whole cluster fermentation aged in 30% new barrels. Pèzerolles is always one of the silkier and suppler expressions of Pommard, with a fine core of stoniness within. In 2015 De Montille has released a beautiful example. The nose is exuberantly perfumed with intriguing aromas of violets, tea roses, and crunchy red berry fruit. The palate is bright and suffused with ripe red and black fruit flavors, notes of black tea, and spices with a discreet framing of some new oak. The vibrant fruit seems to dance over a deeply mineral core that integrates with time in the glass and culminates in a long, succulent, fresh finish. There's none of the roasted character of some of the 2015s, and this is deeply satisfying in its poise, energy, and balance. Bravo! John McIlwain

De Montille 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans

100% whole cluster. The 2015 train keeps a rollin'. A couple of caveats: I've never been one to believe all the 2015 hype—there was sun, more sun, crazy heat, and short-pruning in a number of vineyards that saw terrible hail over the preceding three years. And I am ambivalent at best when it comes to stem inclusion in Burgundy (I mean, Jayer hated stems, right?). So I find myself at a loss to describe how fresh and bright and vibrant the De Montilles are. There's an inspiring florality in a number of the reds with a corresponding lift to the palate (and this is in solar 2015!). The Volnay Mitans shows more of this restrained, elegant vintage character. Aromatically reticent at first with notes of black tea, blood orange peel, spice box, and some pomegranate and red currant floating fruit above a chalky mineral core. The palate is similarly circumspect, but opens and expands over a few hours to offer red cherry, cherry stone, iron, and hibiscus flavors with an incisively tangy, stony succulence. The Mitans offers the most overt whole cluster character, yet remains fresh and vibrant and compelling with its bright acidity and wild berry charm balanced by a deep sense of mineral character. This is lovely and energetic and outperforms the sometimes roasted character of the vintage. Give this 5-7 years and drink for the next decade, and this should dazzle. A fine bottle with magret of duck with lentils, where the soil notes complement the earthiness of the lentils and the savory meatiness of the duck, and this would shine with coq au vin, or any dish with wild mushrooms. De Montille really nailed the 2015s and this Mitans is no exception. John McIlwain

De Montille 2016 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

From a .29 hectare plot in the upper third of the Clos. One third whole cluster.

De Montille 2016 Vosne Romanée 1er Cru Malconsorts

From the top of the slope planted in shallow limestone soils. 66% whole cluster. 60% new oak. The 2016 Malconsorts has a deeply-pitched nose with extravagant red and dark berry fruit, spice, game, and sousbois. The tightly coiled palate offers pure wild fruit, sapid earth notes, and layers of spice, black tea, and dense plummy stone fruit flavors overlaying a firm ripe structure, leading to a long explosive finish. This is tightly wound today, but should sing with 10-12 years in the cellar. This is truly impressive and has a long life ahead. John McIlwain

De Montille 2016 Beaune 1er Cru Grèves

From a 1.26 ha parcel just south of the famed Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus lieu-dit from Bouchard. 1/3 whole cluster fermentation aged in 20% new oak.  As with many growers in 2016 De Montille had losses from frost in many of their holdings and Beaune Grèves was down about 33% from a typical vintage. The robe is a dark ruby. The nose offers a balance of dark fruit, blackberry and violet aromas, and a sauvage, earthy character with hints of black tea and spice. The palate displays ripe dark fruit flavors with black cherry, black currant, and a touch of bramble giving way to a distinctive stoniness that shows a bit broader on the palate than the Taillepieds, with a deeply pitched savory finish. This has the class and stuffing to age with aplomb and is a deeply satisfying Beaune Grèves with enough flair and precision to warrant extended cellaring. John McIlwain

De Montille 2016 Bourgogne

From the Les Longbois lieu-dit in Volnay as well as a number of parcels in Puligny-Montrachet with the addition of fruit from frosted parcels in Volnay and Pommard. The 2016 de Montille Bourgogne Rouge has a medium dark ruby robe and an expressive nose alive with hedge fruit and redolent of forest floor with aromas of sweet, ripe wild strawberry. The palate is initially taut with a distinctive mineral cast giving way to pure red fruit flavors of red currant, pomegranate, and wild strawberry with a pleasing hint of sauvage lending an earthy foundation to support all the wild berry character. This has punchy acidity and a cool-toned herbaceousness adding lift and brightness. Delicious with air, but better still with a year or two in the cellar for a more integrated drinking experience. I find myself impressed with Domaine De Montille at all levels in 2015 and 2016 where everything seems to have come together. John McIlwain

De Montille 2016 Pommard 1er Cru Pèzerolles

From 1.35 hectares of organically-farmed vines. The 2016 vintage is 33% whole cluster fermentation aged in 30% new barrels. Pèzerolles is always one of the silkier and suppler expressions of Pommard (due to the limestone soils) with a fine core of stoniness within. In 2016 de Montille has released a beautiful example with a bright, high-toned nose with pretty aromas of wild strawberries, cherry, wet stone, and brown spice. The palate is lithe, racy, and mineral with pure red fruit and stone fruit flavors underlain by a savory, stony core and zesty acidity on a long, expressive, mouthwatering finish. This will benefit from a few years in the cellar and drink beautifully for a decade beyond. John McIlwain

De Montille 2016 Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens-Bas 1.5L

 If ever there was an argument for the elevation of Pommard 1er cru Rugiens to grand cru status, de Montille's Rugiens-Bas certainly makes a convincing case. The 2016 is 40% whole cluster with aging in 1/3 new oak. The robe is a dark ruby, nearing purple. Aromatically, this offers a kaleidoscopic array of dark flowers, black fruits, and deeply earthy scents with more seemingly in reserve. The palate is intensely flavored with plummy fruit, good mid-palate density, firm tannins and a firm core on ferrous minerality on a concentrated, long finish. This is offering good nascent complexity, though the impression is of a Rugiens that is coiled and will need time to reveal its potential. Given the better part of a decade in the cellar, this should be sensational as the magnificent fruit integrates with the significant structure and drink beautifully for another 10-15 years and beyond. John McIlwain

Drouhin, Joseph 1985 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers

After years of 1985s being fairly shut down, this has opened beautifully. Lovely mature Cazetiers: a fine blend of mature aromas and resolved structure make this an absolute pleasure to drink. John McIlwain

Esmonin, Sylvie 2005 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques

40+ year-old vines, fermented 100% whole cluster. Still young, but given a few more years this should age into something truly special. Purchased on release by a longtime customer, taken from professional storage. (Net priced)

Faiveley 2016 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

Was $449.99

The 2016 Faiveley Clos de Bèze already offers a dazzling array of dark and red fruits, wild berries, pure cherry, and turned earth on the nose. The concentrated palate offers spicy cherry and plum flavors with notes of game, mustard seed, and black tea over a layered and dense mineral core of impressive length and complexity giving way to a long, detailed, stony finish. This will take the better part of a decade to integrate all of its elements, but should provide rewarding drinking for the patient. Excellent Clos de Bèze. John McIlwain

Faiveley 2016 Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley Grand Cru

Ripe, perfumed, and dark-fruited on the nose with a mélange of floral and spice notes and a discreet touch of oak, the 2016 Clos des Cortons has a sensational sense of brightness and complexity. The palate offers a dramatic combination of pure fruit, supple tannins, and vigorous minerality on a layered, harmonious, classy finish. This is lovely and should age effortlessly. Beautiful Corton, indeed. John McIlwain

Fourrier 2013 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Combes aux Moines

.87 hectares dating from 1928. Located north of Champeaux and Les St. Jacques. A warm climat that ripens consistently; a touch backwards in its youth, with time in the cellar gains depth and sophistication.

Fourrier 2014 Griotte Chambertin Grand Cru

Of the Gevrey Grand Crus, this is the prettiest, with sublime aromatics and sneaky power and length. Fourrier's is excellent and rare.

Fourrier 2015 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Goulots

From vines planted in 1966 by Champeaux and Combe Aux Moines. Fourrier made some truly beautiful wines in 2015 handling the ripeness and power deftly. This should age effortlessly.

Grivot 2016 Vosne-Romanée 1er cru Les Beaux Monts

Etienne Grivot seems to have hit new levels in winemaking since 2007. The wines have great class and exceptional energy even in 'difficult' vitages. Beaux Monts is always my favorite of his 1er crus, and 2016 positively shimmers in place. Gorgeous. Highly recommended. John McIlwain

Grivot, Jean 2016 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

50+-year-old vines. Grivot's Clos Vougeot is backwards at this time, but has the fruit and the structure to make for old bones. Great energy is implied within structural elements, give it 7-10 years and drink for another 15.John McIlwain

Jane et Sylvain 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin

From 45 to 60 year-old vines, certified organic, mostly in En Pallud (below 1er Cru les Corbeaux). The low yields and small berries of 2016 really show in this dense and well-structured Gevrey. The aromas are elegant and deep with chalky black raspberry and black cherry, the palate is dense and concentatrated with fabulous length of black fruits and minerals, Carafe many hours in advance if drinking now, best to cellar five years and drink until 2035+. This will be a superb mature Gevrey and is highly recommended.

Jane et Sylvain 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny

Jane et Sylvain have a superb, tiny parcel of Gevrey 1er Cru "Fonteny," high up in the southwest corner, separated from Grand Cru Ruchottes by a dirt track, certified organic. We have 36 btls of Fonteny for the vintage - given the structure of the "regular" Gevrey from Jane et Sylvain, the Fonteny will benefit from ten years in the cellar and should become a profound wine when mature.  In January of 2014, I tasted the 2002 Fonteny in the cellar with Jane and Sylvain.Their eldest son was born in 2002, so they saved a bunch for him, but were generous enough to share one with my father and me. It was transcendental - what I refer to as my "religious experience" with red Burgundy, and possibly one of the most memorable wines I've ever tasted. Flowers, stones, dried fruit, the subtle touch of tannin...truly a blissful experience. Jane says the wine has "la finesse du Ruchottes," referring to the Grand Cru vineyard that is literally feet away from the edge of their vines.  Eben Lillie

Lignier, Hubert 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin

From vines in the Epointures and Reniard lieux-dits. Classically Gevrey--gamy, earthy, with black fruits and a firm mineral core.

Lignier, Hubert 2016 Nuits St Georges Les Poisets

62-year-old vines located beneath 1er cru les Cailles. Dark-fruited, mineral, with a sappy core of plum black fruits and a hint of iron.

Lignier, Hubert 2016 Pommard En Brescul

Lignier-Michelot 2016 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

Like the rest of the lineup, the 2016 Clos de la Roche from Lignier-Michelot is a wine of nearly startling intensity and purity. The nose is redolent of spicy red fruits, violets and roses, and earthy game aromas with layer after layer of soil notes. The perfectly ripe palate is a mélange of sweet, ripe, pure fruit dancing above a deeply-pitched mineral core of fantastically articulate detail. I love the balance of shimmering energy and mineral intensity here that carries through on the long, sophisticated, rising finish. This has great class and will benefit from 10-12 years in the cellar and beyond. A truly beautiful Clos de la Roche! John McIlwain

Lignier-Michelot 2016 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Les Faconnières

Les Faconnières, planted in 1948, is located beneath Clos St. Denis. 50% whole cluster. This is always the most stylish of Virgile Lignier's premier crus with a good deal of the class of the grand crus. The 2016 is effusively perfumed with aromas of black and red hedge fruits, red plum, cassis, spicebox, and freshly turned soil. The mid-weight, concentrated palate is distinctly stony, with a ferrous minerality under-girding perfectly ripe, supple fruit and proceeding to an impeccably balanced and persistent finish. This is a satisfying, serious, albeit lovely Faconnières, which should reward cellaring for 8-10 years and drinking well beyond. John McIlwain

Rateau 2016 Beaune 1er Cru Les Bressandes

Dark forest and hedge fruits on nose, earthy and brooding with game aromas. Taut and mineral, with a core of pungent soil notes of black tea, cherry pit, spice and stone on a dense mid-weight palate. Tightly wound, energetic, on the attack; savory and dark-fruited on the finish. This is a bit reserved at the  moment and benefits from a substantial decant or 5-10 years in the cellar. John McIlwain (June 4, 2019) - What a difference a few months make. This Bressandes has uncoiled to reveal pure wild raspberry and red currant flavors, the nose has become more expressive, exhibiting more floral plum and spice notes. There's a quite a bit more charm here while the underlying balance remains impeccable. Tasted recently alongside another dozen Beaune 1ers, this showed exceptionally well. John McIlwain

Rateau 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin

From two small parcels in "Aux Eletois" (below Grand Cru Griottes)  and "les Epointures" (below 1er Cru Clos Prieur) on the more fine and aromatic side of Gevrey. The midweight palate is lithe, racy, and offers up vibrant flavors of dark fruits, crushed herbs, game, and salty soil notes. Great lifted acidity and core of minerality overlain by an assortment of wild berry fruits. This is another great example of the combination of perfume, pure fruit, and detailed earthiness that is a hallmark of the 2016 vintage. Great tension and verve and a bargain at the price. Wonderful with veau aux champignons. John McIlwain

Rossignol, Nicholas 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds

Rossignol, Nicholas 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets

Was $199.99

Trapet 2016 Chambertin Grand Cru

Trapet 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin

The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin from biodynamic vigneron Jean-Louis Trapet displays the vibrant character of the vintage. The wine has a medium dark ruby robe. The nose is dark-toned in character with aromas of red plum, dark cherry, cherry pit, game, and forest floor. It is dense and dark-fruited on the mid-weight palate with flavors of wild raspberry, wild cherry, black tea, blood orange peel, and mustard seed, with a ferrous, salty, mineral core. There is plenty of ripe pretty fruit, tempered by ripe tannins and fresh mouthwatering acidity and a savory, sauvage character. While not hugely structured, this is tightly wound and should take a few years to unfurl and drink beautifully for a decade or more. This is a fabulous Gevrey-Chambertin of nerve and lift, rather than sheer mass and an intriguing blend of earthy complexity and floral intensity. Highly recommended! John McIlwain

Trapet 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Alea

Voillot, Joseph 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Les Fremiets

Voillot, Joseph 2016 Pommard 1er Cru Les Pézerolles

Voillot, Joseph 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans

Dark ruby robe. A mélange of red and black fruit, forest floor and freshly turned earth on the nose with a faint whiff of anise and mustard seed. The midweight and concentrated palate offers sour cherry, pomegranate, and animale flavors, underlain with a deeply mineral core and a long mouthwatering, moderately tannic, expansive finish. This is fabulous Champans and what it may lack in overt polish, it makes up in mineral frankness and lift. This should age effortlessly and is cracking traditional Burgundy! Voillot’s 2016s are not to be missed! John McIlwain