Red Hook Winery 2010 New York North Fork Vipolze Reserve (.500)
Abe Schoener's spirited shout-out to the Goriska-Brda region of Slovenia and inspired addition to Red Hook's "SK" series of skin-fermented whites, Vipolze peacefully occupies the restrained and food-friendly fringe of the orange wine spectrum. An elegant and angular amalgam of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Sauvignon Blanc (made entirely of the free-run juice from all the other SK wines) loaded with cinnamon, orange zest, white peppercorn, Bengal Spice tea, and a cool whiff of green cabbage and ocean mist. Think Conoebium with a swish of brine! Pair with roasted root vegetables, chocolate pecan pie, a cheese course, and anything amply herbed or spiced. -AR
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