Werlitsch 2008 Steierland Ex Vero 'Legoth'
Fascinating wine from Styria. First, let's get the list of varieties out of the way, since it's both surprising and impressive: Sämling, Welschriesling, Muskateller, Pinot Blanc, Müllerthurgau, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The wine, made by Tscheppe Ewald, is made from Biodynamic grapes grown on sandy soils on steep slopes in Styria in Southern Austria. Styria, or Steiermark, is mostly known for making boring and expensive wines from international varieties such as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Everyone has them planted here, which explains their presence in the blend. The wine ferments spontaneously in old wood barrels and is left in barrel to mature for two years, then held back in bottle. The 2008 is the current release here in the US! The wine was strikingly Jura-esque. The more exotic aromatics you'd expect from grapes like Welschriesling and Muskateller are really dialed back here, and in their place you find salty, savory, bright but broad citrus aromas. Mildly nutty, long and contemplative, this is one of the most interesting Austrians we've come across in some time. -jfr