We're happy to announce the arrival of our final shipment of the wonderful 2011 Regnié from Christian Ducroux, accompanied by delicious new Beaujolais from Jean-Claude Chanudet, Michel Guignier, Bruno Debize and Cyril Alonzo at PUR. It's exiting to have some great new-comers joining our old favorites in the Beaujolais and we hope you'll give them a try. Although there are stylistic differences between these wines, they share a lovely purity of fruit and a lively character on the palate that makes them food-friendly and refreshing. All these growers do great work in the vineyard and are certified organic or biodynamic. Ducroux and Guignier work entirely without added sulfites and the others have a minimal dosage of SO2 at bottling only, helping to give all these wines a complexity and freshness not found in "conventional" Beaujolais. These are delicious, thirst-quenching wines that belong on your table this fall! (We've attached a few of our favorite Cru Beaujolais to this list for your consideration.)
Christian Ducroux is one of the unsung heroes of French wine. His vineyard work is certainly among the best in the world and his meticulous vinifications without sulfur give wines that are alive, fascinating and delicious. He wants his wines to be affordable to all, but they are worth twice the price.
Michel Guignier in Vauxrenard (yes, there's another Michel Guignier in Morgon) makes brilliant light bodied Beaujolais on his 6-hectare estate, including small parcels in Fleurie and Moulin-a-Vent. He has very steep high-density vineyards ('comme autrefois') that he works by hand or with horse-drawn plows. Vinification is semi-carbonic, aging is in old barriques and foudres and there is no SO2 used. Guignier's Beaujolais-Villages "La Bonne Pioche," while similar in style to Ducroux' Regnie, is more akin to a light-bodied Fleurie and his Moulin-a-Vent is a marvelously complex expression of the manganese-rich granite soils. We urge you to try them.
Joseph Chamonard was one of the first growers in Morgon to adopt the ideas of Jules Chauvet and was quietly making some of the greatest Beaujolais on his tiny 4-hectare property. His daughter Genevieve and her husband Jean-Claude Chanudet took over the estate in 1990 and have continued to make small quantities of superb Morgon. They recently acquired two small parcels, one near Morgon, the other near Fleurie and are making a superb Beaujolais-Village, the "Cuvee du Chat" (Le Chat being Jean-Claudes's nickname). It's an elegant and beautifully balanced wine that will drink well over the next few years.
Bruno Debize took over vineyards worked by his father, mostly in the southern Beaujolais on limestone soils, and converted them to Biodynamic agriculture. As opposd to the other growers in this email, Debize works in a Burgundian style - destemmed fruit, an old vertical wooden press, fermentations with cap-punching for extraction and a long elevage in old foudres. The Beaujolais-Villages "L'Homme a la Veste" comes from both granite and limestone terroir, and is the lightest and most forward ("gouleyant" is a better word) wine from Debize.
PUR - Production Unique Rebelle - consists of Florian Looze and Cyril Alonzo, itinerant winemakers who vinify and select wines from the best natural and organic growers situated between the Rhone and Burgundy. Their vinifications are "sincere and alive" with minimal or no SO2, without "make-up" or additives. We don't usually go for cartoon labels, but PUR's Porc Tout Gai, from a tiny plot of 100 year-old vines on granite in the northern Beaujolais is totally charming. Carbonic maceration, with no added sulfur, 100% delicious.
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Guignier, Michel 2011 Beaujolais Villages La Bonne Pioche
A light and lovely Beaujolais-Villages from the Biodynamic estate of Michel Guignier in Vauxrenard, (certified Demeter) produced with zero added SO2. Complex aromas of raspberry/strawberry, beach plum, spice and citrus. The palate is light and bright with earthy berry and cherry fruit, refreshing acidity and good length. At 11.5 degrees of alcohol, this is a superb, dare we say "natural" wine that will quench your thirst served with charcuterie, chicken and lighter meat dishes.
PUR (Cyril Alonzo) NV Vin de France Porc Tout Gai
From a small organic parcel of 100 year-old vines on Granite in the northern Beaujolais. Short semi-carbonic vinification with no added SO2. Lovely ruby-red color, a pretty melange of red fruits with a bit of spice and anise on the very refreshing palate. Bring on the saucissons!
Guignier, Michel 2010 Moulin a Vent La Petite Oseille
Ripe blackberry, cassis and plum with brown spice, rose and iris. Intriguing mineral fruit on the palate with terrific length, remains light and refreshing at 11.5 degrees alcohol and should cellar nicely for 10 years or more. Guignier has very high-density vineyards, certified Biodynamic. We think that Jules Chauvet, who liked his Beaujolais at 11 degrees, would appreciate this wine for its lovely aromas and complexity without weight. Decanting advised as there is sediment.
Coudert (Clos de la Roilette) 2011 Fleurie Clos de la Roilette
Alain Coudert has again in 2011 produced beautiful wines at the Clos de la Roilette. A bit softer and fuller-bodied than the lean 2010, this wine has lovely black and red fruit aromas with hints of earth and spice. The palate is full but structured, certainly lower in acidity that the 2010, but quite long and earthy and promising at least mid-term aging. In other words another delicious wine from Alain, and a great value, that will drink well now and over the next 6 to 8 years. Bravo!
Descombes, Georges 2010 Morgon Cote de Py Vieilles Vignes
Trapped between Georges Descombes and Jean-Claude Chanudet (of Domaine Chamonard) at a tasting last winter, the tasting rapidly became a drinking and notebooks disappeared. What remains are the memories of a superb and elegant wine which we'll re-taste under more controlled conditions as soon as possible. However, with wines like this one doesn't want to control the conditions....
Deep aromas of blackberry and strawberry confit with herbal and citrus notes continue on the deep but bright palate, which is complex and very long, finishing with fruit liqueur and good acidity. This is certainly one of the top wines of the vintage and will benefit from mid-term aging.
Terres Dorees 2010 Fleurie
Jean-Paul Brun's Fleurie is certainly one of the best wines in the appellation and is terrific in 2010. From a semi-circle vineyard in the lieu-dit Grille-Midi, with southern exposure. The soil is very poor sandy granite always giving very low yields. An intense and superb wine in 2010, built to last, great balance of firm acidity and dense material, red and black fruits. This needs time but will be excellent - highly recommended for those who will cellar it 3 to 5 years before drinking. Best in 2020? Re-tasted 03/16/2013: Really one of the best 2010 Beaujolais with lovely red/black color, deep cherry/strawberry, violet and dark chocolate aromas. The palate is ripe but well structured, really balanced and finishes with juicy acids. Delicious now but best 2016 - 2022.
