You might think that these are mutually exclusive terms in Burgundy especially for a vintage of fine quality that was 30% to 50% down in quantity from 2009. Indeed, access to wines from growers like Mugneret-Gibourg, Lafarge, Bachelet, etc., will be very limited and prices will be high. Happily, Chambers Street has been sourcing wines from excellent but lesser-known estates that will provide fantastic quality and value in this very interesting vintage. As most of you are aware, the wines are stylistically appealing, particlarly to those who found the well regarded 2005s and 2009s to be a bit too concentrated and alcoholic. Alcohol levels in 2010 range from 12 to 13 degrees, and acidity levels are firm. The wines are light to medium-bodied, have great purity and complexity of fruit and have fine tannins that lead to fabulous length and mineral character in the finish. The growers represented in this email have produced particularly good wines in 2010.
Domaine Bart, Marsannay - The energetic Martin Bart produces lovely single-vineyard Marsannays as well as Fixin, Bonnes Mares and Chambertin Clos de Beze. Champs Salomon is a great mid-slope parcel giving full, well-structured wines, while Les Echezots, a bit further north and higher on the slope, gives a brighter more delicate style.
Domaine Rapet, Roland and Vincent, Pernand-Vergelesses - The wines of Vincent Rapet seem to get better and better each year. Great vineyard and cellar work including "griffage," a scraping of the soil rather than deep plowing, harvesting by hand into small baskets, no pumping of the juice, no over-extraction and moderate (20%) new oak. The 1er Cru Les Vergelesses is particularly good in 2010, from clay/gravel soils over limestone, very high in iron.
Domaine Jean and Gilles Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses - 2010 is a great vintage at this wonderfully old-fashioned estate. Our tasting there in February was a fabulous lesson in terroir, from the intensely mineral Meursault Les Meix-Chavaux to the superbly elegant Pommard 1er Cru les Chanlins. All these wines are excellent values and are highly recommended.
Domaine Stephane Magnien, Morey Saint-Denis - This four-hectare estate is totally unknown in the US, but is making superbly elegant and transparent Burgundies. Herbicides have never been used, fertilizing is with organic composts, there is minimal new oak and minimal extraction. These are beautiful light-bodied wines of great finesse.
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Lafouge 2010 Auxey-Duresses Rouge
One of our favorite, if somewhat unknown domains of Burgundy, Jean Lafouge and his son Gilles make classic, balanced, beautiful Burgundies at affordable prices. Their village level Auxey-Duresses is always lovely and a great value - here's John Gilman's review of the 2010: "The 2010 Auxey "villages" from Domaine Lafouge will drink very well indeed with only a few years of bottle age and shows off the great purity and transparency of the vintage. The young and classy nose offers up scents of cherries, a touch of quince woodsmoke, gamebirds, incipient notes of sous bois and a gently spicy topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, fullish, pure and nicely structured, with good mid-palate depth, moderate tannins and a long, tangy and soil driven finish. Best 2015 to 2030."
Magnien, Stephane 2010 Morey Saint-Denis
From four parcels in Morey, below the village, with vines averaging about 50 years of age. Lovely transparent red color, fresh wild strawberry and tart cherry fruit with earthy herbal hints. Real grip on the palate which is medium to light-bodied but with great intensity of meaty red fruits, herbs and spice with zingy chalky citrusy acids, really perfectly balanced. 2010 seems to be a superb vintage for the Magniens - there is no lack of fruit but it's contained in a relatively lean frame with good acidity. Great length and persistence of fruit in the finish. A beautiful wine that can certainly be enjoyed young but will age very well.
